Microneedling, Microchanneling, Cosmetic Rollers/Stampers...…What are they?

Microneedling, Microchanneling, Cosmetic Rolling & Stamping…we’ve heard all these words in the beauty world before. But what exactly do they mean & what the heck is the difference in the three?

Let’s first talk about Microneedling:

Originally called collagen induction therapy, it was first created in 1905 by a German dermatologist named Kromayer. Later, around 1995-ish, a Canadian plastic surgeon & his medical tattoo artist associate discovered that when they would do repetitive sessions of tattoo camouflage on scars, it wasn’t the pigment that caused the scars to reduce, but the actual needles.

Around that same time, the infamous South African plastic surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes, had been doing some experimenting of his own and developed a small needle stamp tool that he used to induce collagen in his practice, which later became known as the FIRST dermaroller.

“Skin needling induces collagen and elastin production by employing the body’s natural mechanisms that for the first time, as far as we know, produces regeneration of the skin and its matrix. No scar formation, and the procedure can be safely repeated until the desired effect is achieved.”
-Dr Des Fernandes.

Basically Medical Microneedling is the use of a professional device with tiny needles on the end that prick the skin to get a natural response from the body to release growth factors and repair the skin’s tissue smoother, firmer and healthier. It is typically used with some sort of magical growth factor to enhance the results and prompt recovery.

The depth of the needles range anywhere from .25-3.0 and the deeper the needle, the more it becomes Medical Microneedling. The purpose then is to see bleeding, pinpoint marks. When administered correctly by a trained skincare professional (or Medical Aesthetician for the deeper needles) this treatment can effectively work on acne scars, wrinkles, sagging skin, and stretch marks.

Some would consider it the most ideal skin rejuvenation, as its purpose is to REPAIR the epidermis NOT remove it. A lot of times you’ll notice with more aggressive, harsh treatments such as laser, fraxel, co2 lasers, thermage, etc. ESPECIALLY when done in multiple sessions, you see more chance of epidermal damage, hyperpigmentation, fibrosis (dead scar tissue accumulation) and unhealed, unhappy skin. You are literally burning the skin to get that collagen response, which is exactly what your skin doesn’t need, especially for our darker skinned ladies. This is a big no no for you guys and everyone in my opinion. Let’s put it this way…you don’t have to put your skin through hell to get the best results. Less is more.

When I personally worked at a Medical Spa and was constantly doing laser resurfacing treatments on my skin, I can honestly say I felt like my skin was the absolute worst condition it had been in. It was angry at me, and the more angry it was, the more I thought I had to do. The epidermal layer didn’t have a chance to properly heal itself because it was constantly being removed. That is when I was introduced to the magic of microneedling and my skin thanks me for it everyday.

So whats the downside to Microneedling?
Unfortunately it can also have the chance to hyperpigment if done incorrectly and done too deep on a darker skin tone. It can be quite uncomfortable the deeper the needle depth, but a little numbing cream can help subside that. That’s why it’s best to go to a TRAINED medical professional, especially if you are going for the deeper treatments.

Now let’s talk about Microchanneling:

Still on that same level of Collagen Induction Therapy as microneedling, except the process is a little different, and in my opinion better.

Micro Injuries are created in the skin the same way with tiny needles, or filaments if you will, to create a natural response from the body to release growth factors and regenerate healthier skin. EXCEPT we are using a stamping/tapping technique to create clean, uniform channels instead of rolling and dragging across the skin.

Because of this method the channels are so precise that the downtime becomes very minimal, much less than with Microneedling. It can also be performed on ALL skin types without the risk of hyperpigmenting the skin, and of course the more you do, the better the results are!

The lengths of these needles range from .25-1.5, which can also be performed with the use of a topical anesthetic, but honestly isn’t really needed for the .25 tip. The feeling of vibration rather than pain can be felt. It is also used with a magical growth factor serum derived from human bone marrow to give you the most optimal results and healing power!

Less downtime, Less pain, Less chance of side effects, Faster results that LAST!

So what’s the downside to Microchanneling?
Not a whole lot to be honest! Obviously you want to go to a trained professional that knows what they are doing (Hi!) Severe acne we would want to avoid treating as we don’t want to spread the P.acnes Bacteria (acne causing bacteria) around the face so we would control the acne FIRST, and then we would be able to do the Microchanneling. We also would want to avoid psoriasis and eczema patches, which can easily be maneuvered around. As well as any active cold sores, if you do have a tendency to get cold sores I just recommend you get a Valtrex prescription from your doctor to avoid any occurence of one popping up. Other than those contraindications that is it!! A pretty amazing treatment.

And finally we move onto Cosmestic Rollers & Stampers.

Again same concept, but the needle depth is much smaller. Needle depth ranges from .01-.25, now remember needle depth for Microneedling is 1.0-3.0, and Microchanneling is .25-1.5.
So this little tool is just enough to break through that Stratum Corneum layer (the dead skin) which is roughly .04 mm thick, & the Epidermal layer, which is .1 mm thick.

This tool is focusing solely on product penetration, and allowing the active ingredients in your products to penetrate down and hit that dermal layer. Most products, especially over the counter, aren’t able to reach that dermal layer where you start to see changes in your skin, so that is where these little gadgets come in to play.

I personally have fallen in love with the Microchanneling Celage Stamp which is .25 depth, and is amazing, easy to use, and comes with a few products to use with the Stamper.

What will you notice? A slight pinkness to the skin as the blood and lymph supply are boosted, brighter skin with overall plumpy smoothness. Acids are not to be used with the treatment, and certain Vitamin C should be refrained from using, but overall you won’t feel much downtime, if any. Always remember to wear a Broad Spectrum Protection of at least SPF 15 the following day.

The downside to these Cosmetic at-home Rollers & Stamps?

Again, not a whole lot of downside to these!

I would say avoid cheaply made tools as they probably aren’t designed with the best intention, and could cause more damage in the long run. Also, make sure to thoroughly disinfect your tools to avoid bacteria buildup and make sure not to over-do these treatments on your skin. Remember the goal is only for product penetration…leave the deeper treatments to a professional.

Other than that, these are truly amazing tools to incorporate into your routine.

So there you have it guys! 3 very different, yet extremely effective treatments.
What is my personal favorite? I have fallen in love with the Microchanneling as the downtime is minimal so I can still continue on with my active lifestyle whilst working on my skin goals. I always use my Celage Stamp in between to ensure my products are getting down to the goodness, and so that I’m getting the optimal results!

Still have questions? Leave a comment down below, I’d love to chat more with you!